All World
Gayatri Pariwar

[Pujya Gurudev’s Travelogue of the Pilgrimage to the Himalayas- Continued]

Today we reached Bhojwasa camp. Tomorrow morning we have to set out for Gomukh. Here there is no traffic. One comes across pilgrims / travellers between Gangotri and Uttarkashi. In camps also there are crowds; but not so here. Today we are a group of only six persons. Everybody has brought with him his own tiffin. Though it is called Bhojwasa (catering establishment) and also has an inn; but there are no board and lodging facilities, as are available at the lower camps. 

On looking upwards the mountaintop in front, it seemed as if Himagiri (mountain peak) was performing worship of Lord Shankar by pouring water over it by its own hands. The scene was celestial. From a great height, a thin stream was falling down. Down below, there was a nature-made Shivlinga. The water was falling over it. While falling, the water was getting scattered into tiny drops and the sunrays falling on them were creating an enchanting rainbow. One concretely felt that Shiva was present in reality and the gods were showering on Him flowers of all colours from the Milky Way. The scene was so captivating and engrossing, that the mind and the eyes got glued to it. I kept on looking at it until darkness pulled the curtain over it. 

Beauty is the thirst of Soul. But how can it be found in the mud of artificiality? People decorate their homes with pictures of these forests and mountains and feign to enjoy their beauty. But none cares to look at the immense beauty spread all over in nature's lap. The Himalayas are called the ocean of beauty. Walking in these remote regions creates heavenly vibrations in the soul, and one longs to get lost in this boundless beauty. 

Today's scene was really nature's wonder at its best; but in my imagination I was getting a glimpse of the celestial pleasure as if I was seeing Lord Shiva right before me in reality. I was inwardly feeling immense joy. If only I were able to describe even a part of this joy for the benefit of those who are not here, and let them get the feel of this celestial joy by reading these lines. 

The same difficulty as was faced during the journey from Uttarkashi in the beginning, was faced again today. The widening and repairing work of the road up to Bhatwadi camp was going on. So the milestones were not there. The road was steep and hence the journey along it on foot was very exhausting. The way all along surrounded with the beauty of the forest. Yet the delight and excitement it generated in the beginning was diminishing due to constantly seeing it all the twenty- four hours of the day. The lonesome journey through the unpeopled region was also getting more and more monotonous. Anyone who is used to the life of hustle and bustle in the midst of people feels it difficult to bear the pressure of solitude. When this loneliness and hard physical strain tire the mind and the body, the only desire is to know how much distance has been covered and how much yet remains to be covered. And it was not possible to know in the absence of the milestones.

After walking some distance, it was usually enquired from the travellers coming from the other direction as to how far away the next camp was. The distance to be walked was thus estimated on the basis of that information. Some travellers happened to be unresponsive and would disregard the question and would not answer. Some did not know the distance, some would tell the approximate distance; but their approximation differed by many miles. So there was no certainty about the correctness of the information given. It was thus a hopeless situation for a lone traveller. When travelling in a group of five or six people, joyfully walking, talking and laughing, the journey passes off without feeling any strain but the difficult journey all alone is very exacting. In such a situation the absence of milestones was acutely felt during the journey from Bhatwadi to Gangotri. In the absence of the milestones the walls of the mountain was whitewashed at places, and thereon the distances were indicated in red figures like 25/6 and so on. It meant that the spot was 25 miles and 6 furlongs away from Dharasu. From the mileages of camps mentioned on the maps, the distance to the next camp could be assessed. In this loneliness this information on the walls was very helpful. The entire journey was completed in this manner. Each furlong covered gave the solace that this much distance has been covered and this much remained to be covered. 

Again, on the way from Gangotri to Gomukh, there were no milestones or furlong stones and the difficulty experienced on the way from Uttarkashi to Gangotri was repeated. This journey of 18 miles from Gomukh to Gangotri was performed with great difficulty. The path too was very hazardous. And to top it all was the absence of the milestones that were the travellers' guide! While writing these lines, I feel the distress all the more. 

How insignificant is a milestone! Its cost, qualification, ability, education, intelligence etc., are all ridiculous. But it stands erect at a fixed spot with a fixed duty. It never thinks of moving from the spot. It knows only one thing i.e. the distance from Dharasu to this spot is so much. With this much knowledge it has set out to serve. How useful its firm faith proves to be. Innumerable travellers like me get guidance from it and get relief from worrying about the distance between the places. 

When a small piece of stone can serve to guide, when a small earthen lamp of little value can offer light in darkness and help save from mishaps and dangers, should service-minded human beings remain idle only because of their ability, education, intelligence etc., being little and limited? Everybody has some drawbacks or shortcomings, but each one of us can serve at least those among us who are less educated, less intelligent and less fortunate. Instead of indulging in useless talk that such and such thing could be done if such and such potentiality and ability were there, would it not be better to do whatever we can with whatever we are capable of to help and guide others to better themselves? The milestone knows only the distance between Dharasu and Gangotri and nothing else. Yet its service is not of any less importance. The inconvenience and hardship caused by its absence during the journey from Uttarkashi to Bhatwadi is pestering me even in the midst of the happy imagination of the joy. I am going to have the Darshan (a view of the holy sight) of Gomukh tomorrow. 

Most of us are capable of serving humanity better than the milestone. But the opportunity to prove our utility will come only when we firmly come forward with self- confidence and dedication, with whatever ability we possess. 

Constant walking has caused blisters on the feet. Today when I looked at the feet, there were in all ten blisters of varying sizes. I had worn canvas shoes hoping that they would be convenient to walk on the hard terrain, but they too caused two injuries. The small injuries and blisters were whitish and the larger ones filled with water inside were of yellow colour. The walking became painful. It looked as though the legs were expressing their helplessness in walking. 

The destination is far ahead. In any case I have to reach at the appointed place by Gurupoornima day, the full moon day of the Hindu calendar month of Ashadh. What to do when the legs are not in a fit condition? Somehow I walked limping yesterday, but today I feel it difficult. Some of the blisters have ruptured and are becoming septic. If it gets worse, walking would become extremely difficult, and if I could not walk, I would not be able to reach the destination in time. It worried me the whole day. 

To walk barefoot is also difficult. The entire way is littered with sharp stone chips that pierce like thorns into the feet and cause immense pain. A solution was devised. Half of the ‘Dhoti’ was torn out and divided into two pieces. Each foot was bandaged with it. The shoes were put in the bag. It worked. Slowly I started walking. 

On one side there were my own feet that began to express their inability at my hour of need, and on the other side was this bamboo staff (lathi) which, God knows where it was born and how and when it came to me, is helping me like a brother. Like the old and sick people, when they feel tired, are carried by their near and dear ones on their shoulders, this lathi, is lending me support like one's own relatives and friends. 

The way beyond Gangnani camp was very slippery due to rains. The path alongside Ganga was narrow and the high mountain wall stood beside it. On this perilous path, this lathi alone helped to get over the difficulty. Had this one too given way like the shoes, God alone knows if I would have been here to write these lines today. 

The shoes that were bought with high hopes have caused injuries. The legs that were relied upon also expressed inability in this critical time. But this worth-less lathi proved to be so helpful that I feel indebted to it to no end. I feel like going on singing its praises. 

Expectations from those that were one's own failed. It annoyed me much. But at the next moment the thought of the faithfulness of this unknown alien lathi, came to mind. It gladdened me. Instead of worrying over and cursing those that created trouble, why not remember the one that has graciously helped me reach here. Why think in terms of own and aliens? In this creation of God all are our own and all are aliens, too. 

Today all along the way I have been carefully observing and pondering over the hazardous life of the hilly people. Wherever small soil patches measuring a few square feet are found in the hills, they are made use of for cultivation. Tilling the land using bullocks is out of question here. So the job is done by pickaxes. When the crop matures it is cut and carried to their residences up above the hills, where thrashing is carried out. Where there are no streams, water from the valleys down below is carried on heads or backs to the mountain above. Mostly women do all this backbreaking work including the collection and carrying of firewood from the jungle higher above. 

These people have to climb up and down many times more than we do on our journey that tires us. They have no means of entertainment either. They were clad in handspun woolen or cotton clothes, mostly torn or patched. Yet they were happy. While working in the fields they were singing in chorus. Being not acquainted with their language, the meaning of the songs could not be understood but the joy and enthusiasm coming out of them was easily comprehensible. 

In comparison to the people here, those living in the plains are many times better off in wealth, education, food, shelter, clothing and conveniences of all sorts. Comparatively they have to toil much less. Yet they are unhappy and dissatisfied. They always go on lamenting their lot. In contrast, these people exude peace, happiness and satisfaction by living on whatever comes to their lot, after putting in exacting hard work. Why this difference? 

It appears that dissatisfaction is a tendency, which is not due to lack of materials but on account of greed. Greed cannot be satisfied with materials. It is a bottomless abyss. Had it not been so why should those living on the plains with much more comforts than the hilly people with so little, be unhappy and dissatisfied? Why should the latter, with so little, enjoy a peaceful and joyous life? 

Having more means is not bad. They are also necessary. But what is desirable is to be satisfied with what one gets and not to indulge in acquiring more than is required for leading a decently simple life. And why remain unhappy and dissatisfied by disregarding the available gifts of God? 

The path of modernity that we have adopted for seeking the mirage of happiness by spending more and more and still remaining dissatisfied is not correct. It is amply illustrated by these hilly people, though they are unable to deliver lectures on it or write thesis on this subject. 

Today I crossed the Bhairon valley. The traders' route to Tibet via Tailang valley passes by this way. Merchants from Harshill use this route to take timber for sale in Tibet, from where they purchase woolen articles to sell here. Since the ascent is very steep, one gets tired very soon and starts panting, which makes it necessary to take rest at frequent intervals. 

I was resting, leaning against a mountain rock. Down below Ganga was roaring, the like of which was heard nowhere else along the way. Particles of water were seen rising high upto about 30 to 40 feet. I became curious to know why Ganga is roaring so loud, why is she so energy-filled and violently speedy here? I began to look below, around and far and wide. 

It was noticed that here Ganga is passing through a narrow course between two closely standing hills. The width might hardly be 10 to 15 feet. So it is natural for the water to develop so much velocity. Along the course there were also blocks of rock against which the water was forcefully striking, resulting in the roaring sound. The water, when broken, used to rise like pieces of brick. The scene of the speeding Ganga here is awe-inspiring. 

At places like Soron, where Ganga is miles wide, the velocity is very low. It has neither fury nor hurry. But here the velocity is intense because it has to pass through this narrow gorge between the mountains. Man remains unhappy because of his activities getting scattered in numerous fields. So he cannot create anything worthwhile. But when a man restricts his fields of activity and concentrates his energy thereon, astonishing results are found to be achieved. Is it not what Ganga proves here? Should we not emulate Ganga's example so as to achieve something worthwhile by focussd use of our energy, rather than frittering it away on inconsequential matters? 

The blocks of rock lying in the course of the stream compel the water to face the struggle by striking against them. The roaring and thundering were due to this struggle. The water particles were rising above like balloons of cotton. The action made me think that man's potential, too, would remain untapped and unrealized if life is spent in indolence, petty pleasures and merriments, without any purposeful struggle. If man could focus his determination, capabilities, endurance, patience, and perseverance, his fame too would echo far and wide, like the roaring of Ganga here. The particles of the special qualities of his personality would be seen rising high like the shining water particles of the Ganga. Ganga is unafraid, passes through the little narrow available path; she does not get frightened by the hurdles on the way. On the contrary she strikes against them and makes her way. Alas! If only our inner self were charged with such profound energy and enthusiasm, we too would have the opportunity to refine our personality.